Biwa [NEW]

[October 17th, 2007] 215 SE 9th Ave., 239-8830. Dinner Monday-Saturday. $$ Moderate.[/i]

The two best words in the Japanese language are oishii (for “delicious”) and natsukashii (an exclamatory word best described by the English noun “nostalgia”). Both derive their greatness from the enthusiasm from which the words inevitably spring, especially when they’re used to describe what is undoubtedly one of Japan’s grandest contributions to humanity: the perfection of Chinese ramen. Not, mind you, the kind that comes dried and wrapped in plastic on supermarket shelves. Ramen done right is homemade and swimming in a warm, aromatic broth under salty and sumptuous toppings ranging from sliced pork to oxtail. That’s how it’s done at Biwa, where customers who’ve never before delighted in the joy o’ ramen may very well experience déjà vu. Which is why oishii and natsukashii come in handy at the relatively new restaurant, a stylish expanse of concrete nestled in the ground floor of the old La Luna/Pine Street Theater. The wide assortment of belly-expanding noodle dishes, grilled vegetables and satisfying standbys like fried gyoza are perfectly suited to an evening of noshing—and beer and sake drinking. (BS)

Signature dish: The udon noodles come in a broth of dried fish and seaweed. They’re not to be missed. (Added bonus: They hold up better than ramen as leftovers.)

Standouts: The kimchi is a break from traditional Japanese fare, but it’s a welcome one.

Regrets: Biwa’s not open for lunch.