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ISSUE #33.49 • SPECIAL SECTION • RESTAURANT GUIDE

Ciao Vito

BY | 503 243-2122

[October 17th, 2007] 2203 NE Alberta St., 282-5522. Dinner nightly. $$-$$$ Moderate-Expensive.

How much you like Ciao Vito depends on how challenging you want your meal to be. If the answer is “I really have enough to deal with without enduring the chef’s mission statement,” then this comfortable and polished Italian gem is for you. The tall, tufted banquettes are easy on the arse; the servers are gracious, friendly and conversant on the nicely priced wines from Italy and the Northwest; and, through some magic of acoustics yet unknown to other restaurateurs, vintage jazz and conversation float as lightly through the room as feathers. There’s an easy intimacy that appeals to retirees driving in from the Pearl, parents with well-behaved children in tow, and young couples playing footsie at the open kitchen’s bar, flirting over a Giro d’Italia (gin, Campari, muddled lime and a splash of soda) and a generous plate of fresh-fried calamari. Sound unreal? In truth, the calamari needs salt, and the accompanying lemon aioli tastes like little more than jarred mayo. Sugo of pork with crispy polenta and Parmigiano-Reggiano is a gorgeous dish, until you bite into it and wonder, “Where’s the salty smack of cheese, the tang of tomato?” Pan-fried razor clams are equally muted. And that’s when you realize that the flip side of not being challenged is that there are few epiphanies—the exception being Vito Dillulo’s tiramisu, a cup of creamy wonderfulness with a big hit of Marsala. (NR)

Signature Dish: Ciao Vito is known for crispy and flavorful polenta, which unfortunately sometimes arrives puffy and bland.

Standouts: Hello, tiramisu!

Regrets: Please, pass the salt.

Comment on Ciao Vito   Comment RSS feed

Sara L.  writes on Nov 9th, 2008 10:19am

My Family took me to Ciao Vito for my birthday. The look of the place is nice dark and trendy, but the noise was a horrible roar, it's almost as deafeningly noisy as Fife. Please folks some acoustic dampening would be in order. Fortunately we were in the 22nd St. side away from the worst of the noise.

At first our server was pleasant, the Calimari was excellent, and the Beet salad was amazing, except it was a little spendy for the amount of salad.

I had the pork chop and my husband and daughter had the skirt steak. Both the meats were beautifully prepared, the chanterells with the Pork were heavenly, as was the broccoli raab with the steak. What I didn't understand was why with a 2.5 inch thick pork chop they would only give about 3 tablespoons of polenta, to go with it. The mashed potatos were similarly scare with maybe a quarter of a cup of potatos with the steak. Despite the anemic quantities of starch, everything was quite good.

We get the dessert menu, and for a chilly November evening, the only chocolate dessert they had was ice cream. The website has a menu with a choclate dessert I really wanted to try, but they didn't have it that night.

My husband had ice cream, my daughter had tiramisu, both were good.

I find having tiramisu late in the evening keeps me up, so I decided to have the apple crisp.

First, I ignored a red flag when the menu said the apple crisp was made of 3 kinds of heirloom apples and one of these "heirlooms" was developed in the 1970s, and isn't much of a cooking apple, the other 2 were true heirlooms, but only one of them was a great cooking apple, but in a properly made apple crisp it shouldn't be much of an issue.

The description sounded like I would get a proper apple crisp with the apples prepared like for a pie, with a crisp crumble topping, baked to where the apples are soft, and the topping is crunchy. What I got was a plate of roasted/steamed skin on apple chunks with steamed granola sprinkled on top, and a small bump of gelato in the middle. Ciao Vito's "apple crisp" is more like a topping for a cooked oatmeal and yogurt breakfast than a dessert for after a fine meal.

The server must have seen my confused and disappointed face when she set it in front of me, because she was impossible to get to stop at our table after that. She dropped off the check and finished the transaction with only the quickest runs by our table, and few words. Given that the place was thinning out, it was crystal clear that she simply did not want to help us anymore.

Some of the food is truly great, some of the food isn't worth the money, and the service is uneven, I'm not sure we will ever come back, because Ciao Vito seems like such a crap shoot.

Comment on the "Ciao Vito" article
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